Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island 2013 - Part 3

July 25 - 30:
After a great evening with Allan & Anna on BlueAnTeak we prepared to get underway about 9am with the fog breaking up - but not before retrieving the crab trap.  Two nice sized keepers! (must have liked the dinner leftovers)

After motoring out Matilda Inlet and across to Calmus Passage (in the fog...) Linda boiled the crab, while I decided to drag a bucktail fly behind the boat while maintaining my 5 knot speed.  I didn't have the line dragging more than about 3 or 4 minutes when I noticed out of the corner of my eye a streak near the stern and then zz-innng! the rod did a huge bend and line began to fly out...  well, it was 'put the boat to idle, but keeping in gear and autopilot on to maintain steerage, ( remember, fog...) while Linda and I fought the fish, both taking turns on the reel and on the net, it's not easy netting a very feisty coho with the high freeboard of a sailboat.  We really should have lost it as we 'batted it' a few times, but we did indeed net it, finally!

The seafood bounty has really been an embarrassment of riches so far this year, it's amazing!  Approaching Tofino can be challenging with the ubiquitous crab trab floats and shallow sand bars, it pays to keep a keen eye.

We continued on past the town of Tofino and up Lemmens Inlet to an anchorage in the northwest corner known as God's Pocket, where it was another feast.  The next day saw us return to Tofino and anchor off the town (there was no room on the docks and they really aren't very accommodating to cruising boats as there are usually commercial fishboast and charter vessels tied two abreast).  We did spend time ashore and enjoyed all the acoutrements of a bustling tourist town at the height of the season.

I would really be remiss if I didn't talk about the anchorage off the town of Tofino - it's terrible!!  As I said the docks aren't really very welcoming to cruisers especially when compared to Ucluelet; the only place to anchor near the main part of town is across from the main docks and east of Arnet Is. and, as we found out, the current can really run here!! - plus, there is a constant flow of fast moving traffic which throws wakes on top of those currents.  So make sure your anchor gear is sturdy and your comfort level sufficient... Although the sunsets from this anchorage can be beautiful. 

 Dance Lightly and BlueAnTeak were anchored nearby and Propinquity managed to find a spot rafted at the town docks, where Mary rejoined her hubby for the remainder of the trip around to Nanaimo.  In any event we had another great potluck dinner on Silhouette!  

On the following day we left Tofino on Silhouette with Dance Lightly about an hour after 'BlueAnTeak' bound for Ucluelet, (Propinquity stayed for and extra day, exploring and anchoring up one of the inlets).  The forecast had called for a possible gale force, but it appeared to be much less, and in fact 'BnT' reported winds more in the area of 8 knots.
BnT had called on the radio and warned us of the hundreds of crab trap floats  dispersed for miles down the coast and in the waves and swell they were hard to see!  Once again the seas were relatively calm other than the large swells and with only about 5-8 knots of wind it was a motor sailing passage.  It's amazing that so far this trip the higher winds usually encountered on the west coast of Vancouver Island have not been present making sailing sketchy at best.  On the other hand the thick fog usually present this time of year has been absent allowing us to experience mostly sunny and warm weather!  So, no complaints here!

Ucluelet is much better suited for cruising boats as far as moorage and facilities.  We were greeted warmly by the harbour master on docking and told of where to find everything. Dance Lightly rafted alongside and BnT anchored out (Anna's son has come on board to visit and explore the Broken Is. group with them.) 

         

Rafted in Ucluelet Hbr.

The annual "Ukee Days" were in full swing and we enjoyed a few moments of the logger sports and an ice cream cone!  Barb & Harv (from D.L.) and us from Silhouette; had dinner that evening aboard the Canadian Princess Restaurant.

  At this point I will just quote the story from Barb & Harv's blog -
(http://retirementbh2013.blogspot.ca/2013/07/summer-of-gales.html ):
  

 "Story...Saturday night Silhouette and Dance Lightly decided to go out for dinner to the Canadian Princess...but we were a bit worried about Murphy, you see when left alone Murphy decides to serenade everyone around... 

A decision was made...Skye and Murphy are getting along very well and seem to like each others company so we put the two dogs on Dance Lightly and zipped up the enclosure.! Linda let the boats around know that we were leaving and Murphy might sing a few tunes....we walked away...no noise...Skye you are doing a great job of babysitting!!!!l

Well.....we came back two hours later and saw a note pinned on Silhouette saying that Murphy was on  their boat...'Dream Weaver' from Washington.  It seems Murphy did not make a sound but was Houdini...the people from Dream Weaver were coming back from walking their dog to find Murphy running on the dock....not sure how he got out... put him back onto the boat but noticed a few minutes later he was back out again!!! This time they saw that he was crawling out from underneath the canvas...Harvey had not snapped down the enclosure...this still was a major undertaking because the enclosure is so tight with all the zippers down up!!! So, the kind people took Murphy on board their boat while they played cards and we came back from dinner. We asked how Skye was and they said she just laid there taking in all the excitement....way to go Skye...some babysitter you are!!!! "

So, the fun and excitement never ends, along with the stories...  :)

The following day, July 28, Silhouette along with D.L. left Ucluelet and did a little fishin' outside the harbour and saw a grey whale, then proceeded up Barkley Sound to Cataract Cove in Pipestem Inlet and after anchoring took the dinghies up the river and explored 'Lucky Creek', the waterfall and the swimming pools as noted in the guidebook.

Well, to be honest, the girls swam in the pools; Harvey and I stayed back to watch the dogs and clothes - contrary to popular belief it had nothing to do with the ice-cold water!!

The next several days were enjoyed in the Broken Island group and exploring. Tuesday, July 30th, D.L. and Silhouette visited Bamfield and the beaches

 and then spent the night in Dodger Channel - a good jumping off point before making the passage down Juan de Fuca Strait.  While in dodger Chnl anchorage, Howard had the idea of having a bonfire on the sandy beach (as it will be our last chance before hitting "civilization".  So we gathered firewood, invited Barb & Harv on D.L. and another couple on a sailboat (Jerry & Kathy on 'New Sensations') that was anchored alongside.

Well, got the fire started!

View from the beach.

Food and beverages!

Somebody was eating beach scraps!!

After the bonfire it was early to bed - because we had another "break of dawn departure" to transit the sometimes-daunting Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Circumnav of V.I. - Part 2

Cruise Around Vancouver Island - June/July 2013  (Part 2)

July 12-18
Finally getting underway from Sea Otter Cove - we had a reasonably nice sail in fine conditions down island,wind picked up to about 20+ off Kains Island, sailed into Quatsino Inlet and finally to anchor in North Harbour. Quatsino is a major inlet on the west coast that makes a significant indentation into Vancouver Island with arms extending up Holberg Inlet and also into the villages of Coal Harbour and Port Alice.  Unfortunately our allotted time this year did not let us explore much beyond a few nautical miles of the entrance. The next day found the entire "Circle the Rock" fleet enjoying the docks at the village of Winter Harbour and stretching our legs on the boardwalks. The docks were a bustle of activity with the sport fishing beginning in earnest and the fish cleaning stations full. The girls managed to snag a couple fish with a few smiles and compliments to the fishermen at the cleaning stations... good work ladies! :) 

More potluck and socializing followed. Winter Harbour is a very quaint little seaside town with about 2 km of boardwalk and many colourful little displays of local artworks. Orcas and sea otters were sighted in the harbour during our stay. Many of us took advantage of the laundry and showers at the top of the dock ramp.

Winter Harbour:

 Silhouette along with Blue An Teak took a side trip up Quatsino Inlet to Koprino Hbr; Dance Lightly and Propinquity spent a night at North Harbour; 

Along the way up Quatsino Sd. Linda caught a nice little spring salmon off Cliff Pt and we enjoyed another sunny day and a pretty little anchorage at Koprino right near the mouth of the river. It was an idyllic little setting and we all enjoyed paddling and exploring...  

Allan rode up the mast to check something...

And Murphy enjoyed "self-petting" on the boom vang...

July 15th:Weather not really great for going around Brooks Peninsula, so we returned to anchor at North Harbour, while the guys on Propinquity sailed down the coast a bit to Klaskino Inlet.

The next day (July 16) was forecast to be a good day for a passage around the daunting Brooks Peninsula and Solander Island (which sometimes can have the most extreme winds along the coast); as it should be only 15 to 20 knots NW.

We left just after daylight from North Harbour (Harv & Howard taking the dogs ashore just as dawn broke).  The winds were blowing outflow from Quatsino Sound and I recorded easterly winds of 33 knots at one point; 

reefed and sailing alongside 'DL and 'BnT, it was an exhilarating ride that lasted about one hour before dying out to another motor-sail event around Brooks...  

Propinquity joined the group approaching Solander Island and we motor sailed into the Bunsby Islands group...

So the big news of the day was that the guys on P had caught a 60lb halibut 

and it was quite the tale - very generously shared out bags of halibut slabs to the group.  We will be eating well for days!!

The anchorages and beaches are amazing and we had both wonderful weather and great fun exploring...

After two days we headed on to the village of Kyuquot.

July18-23:  Kyuquot Sound and the Checleseht region is one of the 5 major sounds located on the west coast of Vancouver Island and is home to about 150 permanent residents.  The settlement of Kyuquot comprise the "commercial centre" and the first nations village of Houpsitas in Walters Cove.

We did some shopping at the general store and post office and also everyone made use of the free wireless while having a meal at the local restaurant.  There were also several cute sea otters frolicking just off the docks.

Unfortunately we weren't able to meet up with our friends Frank & Sue who live just outside the cove, so after spending several hours we left the docks to check out a nice anchorage we'd heard of called 'Blue Lips Cove', while some of the group went on to Dixie Cove and Propinquity to Fair Harbour to change crew and pick up supplies.  'Blue Lips' was wonderful, peaceful and fascinating in that there were schools of mackerel swimming throughout the anchorage just below the surface and several eagles trying their luck fishing.

July 19-22:  The next day 'Silhouette' left Kyuquot Sound and proceeded on alone to Nuchatlitz at the entrance to Esperanza Inlet, but not before stopping at Rugged Point to explore the beach.  We had heard that there had been a cougar sighted recently and were on alert, but not expecting the big black bear we saw on the beach while paddling in...  we gave it plenty of room and talked loudly on the boardwalk on the way across the peninsula to the beach on the outside!

Navigated through broken fog patches (first we've seen since rounding Cape Scott) into Nutchatlitz inlet and anchored off an old homestead;  feels fairly open but I'm assured by my guidebook (Dreamspeaker) that it's good holding.  Amazing sunset after dinner.  

The next day we had a rousing run with the inflow winds up Esperanza Inlet through Tahsis Narrows and into the town of Tahsis.

Tahsis was a great stop!   We enjoyed the facilities immensely as it really caters to the boating public.  Besides the usual showers and laundry it has a fuel dock, great open air bar (Jimmy Buffet style), free wireless and live music on Saturday nights.  It's sad to see much of the town abandoned now that the mill has closed but it's good that the sport fishing industry is still keeping some of the residents employed.

Following our stay in Tahsis we motored down Tahsis Inlet to our anchorage in Kendrick Inlet behind Bodega Is. but not before fishing (and once again catching another salmon) just north of Coopte Point, and no, it's not getting boring...  What was unusual about this fish story is the ending -  the fish caught was a pink of about 5 lbs. and shortly after we were on the radio with Barb & Harvey on Dance Lightly who were now inbound to Tahsis and we told them that we had another salmon to share the next day; however, while cleaning it at the anchorage, Howard was in the final rinsing stage when the slippery pink slipped out of his hands and did a circling pirouette down to the depths....  So the next day Linda told them that pinks were not up to standard to share with guests and that we had thrown it back!  (but she shared the true story moments later).

The following day (Jul. 22nd) we once again met up with our "Circle the Rock" gang at Nootka Cove and went ashore, saw the sights, then anchored just east in Santa Gertrudis cove.  

There is an amazing history of Nootka Cove, from the first nations Nu-cha-nulth chief Maquinna, seafaring Captains' Cook, Bodega, Vancouver and Quadra and the signing over of the lands north of the Columbia from Spain to England that took place here.  The church ashore has stained glass windows (a gift from Spain) commemorating the event as well as some great first nations totems within the hall.

It was great once again anchored with the gang.  The wine and the stories were flowing and everyone is having a great vacation.  The sunny weather here on the west coast of the island is amazing (usually there is much more fog than we have encountered). 

July 23-24: Well I spoke too soon about the fog; as it was thick when we awoke, but it is expected to lift and we are getting underway to round Estevan Point (one of the last big passages before Juan de Fuca Strait) and plan to be in Hot Springs Cove this evening. 

It was thick the first hour and seas got rather lumpy (wind NW ~20knots) approaching Estevan and the fog lifted (more or less) while rounding Estevan Point, sun came out and we had a gentle broad reach as the wind died upon entering Hot Springs Cove.  Silhouette was greeted with a breaching grey whale at the entrance!  Looks to be a busy place in mid-day with all the charter boats out of Tofino delivering visitors to the springs, but our 4 boats had it all to ourselves in the evening!

It was another highlight of this marvellous trip!  The next morning at first light Linda and I took the dinghy out and explored out near the entrance to the cove as it was a very low tide - all the colourful starfish, sea anemones, kelp and we even found a small abalone!  Which we photo'd and then returned to his home...

The fog threatened to lift so Silhouette along with Blue an Teak got underway heading for Ahousat by heading around Flores Island...

...while Propinquity and Dance Lightly sailed up Shelter Inlet to Bacchante Bay.

A short visit to the Ahousat General store (that is an experience due to all the old, old hardware type stock items... 

had lunch at the dock with Allan and Anna and then motored into Matilda Inlet for the night  Had dinner on BlueAnTeak and an evening jam session (and set the crab trap as it appears to be a likely looking spot...)